I have just returned from the "jungles" of North Sulawesi with my family and 2 other families and have survived. Only once did I become a little bit "celiac-sick" and I have returned home the same weight as when I left. That's saying a lot, because eating wasn't always easy, and we were always on the go. Our first stop was Bunaken Island, and our 2nd was in the mountains just outside of Manado, in Tomahon. Although the restaurants (for lack of a better word) in both locations tried to be accommodating, I found the latter the most attentive to my diet. This became obvious the moment our host asked "is anybody here vegetarian?"
After being picked up at the Manado airport we were driven to what was to become a memorable starry, moonlit boat ride to our first location, Bunakan Beach Resort. During the ride we were told that the owner of the resort was getting married the next day, and our families were invited to join in. Although we were excited about the cultural experience ahead, we agreed that we'd probably not partake of the dog-rat stew that was part of the buffet. Before retiring for our first night, I spoke with the cook--who it turns out was the bride herself--about what I could and could not eat. Although I think she understood the gyst of it, some of the earnestness was lost in communication as she later explained to her staff how to deal with me. It wasn't until the 2nd night, that of the wedding itself, when I went down into the kitchen to cook my buckwheat pancakes that I was able to use some of the wisdom I learned from a fellow Celiac's blog . I told the staff who had gathered to watch me cook my pancakes (3 ladies and one fellow) that I had an illness like diebetes, and if I eat anything I'm not supposed to, I will become very sick. That seemed to work, so thank you Singapore Coeliac! After that, I was usually given a separate bowl each meal that contained 2 boiled eggs and some form of cooked vegetable. Not my ideal meal but I was really thankful for the break. I was getting tired of asking "what is in this sauce?" or "is this made from powder?" I think the staff was getting tired of hearing it as well.
One thing about Indonesian culture that seems to get in my way of healthy eating is that typically, Indonesians are very agreeable. If I ask "is there soy sauce in this?" they will so often say yes, even though it doesn't, because they THINK that that is the answer I want to hear. I'm learning to ask what ingredients are in something, and then to repeat back to the staff member what they've said to me. Often they'll elaborate a little upon the second repetition. When it gets too complicated, I eat white rice and then snack on nuts and dried fruit later.
I have to admit that I felt a little sorry for my fellow travellers, as I was constantly aware of what was being served, how, and to whom (especially when I was forgotten in the mix). On our final morning in Bunaken, fried egg sandwiches were being served to all for breakfast. My husband explained (for the umpeenth time) that I cannot have the bread but would like the egg. After a long wait, out came my egg sandwich, complete with 3 pieces of toast. It is not a very nice feeling to look someone in the eye and tell them that they got my order wrong, and also to know that I was going to waste food that somebody living very, very nearby would probably LOVE to eat. Thankfully a man we'd just met offered to take my roti dan telur off my hands and out came 2 more boiled eggs 20 minutes later.
Life got a lot easier for me when we entered Highlands Resort & Spa in the mountains, because not only had we stopped at a grocery store and picked up some snacks on the way (I'd eaten most of mine as fillers on the island), but because the staff asked about dietary needs. It was established that I can eat rice and bihun (rice vermicelli), as well as a variety of made-from-scratch dinner meals that the cook, Ibu Ati, was quite willing to make for me. My first meal consisted of chicken and corn egg-drop soup, with cap cai and rice on the side. Both breakfasts contained one special fried dish just for me, sauce-less, and at least one egg. I was very thankful that I didn't have to be on top of things, and that as soon as the staff saw me heading towards the buffet breakfast, they'd bring out my meal. I do have to admit, though, I am still a little uptight about checking how things are being done, and although I see it as being irritating to the staff, my fellow travellers encouraged me that it's actually being aggressively healthy. Something I'll continue to learn as I go, I suspect.
This short, 5-night trip away from general civilization (mostly felt in the lack of food stores) was a great opportunity for me to learn a variety of things. I found that I do need to bring some basics like Bragg's soy sauce substitute, some non-dairy milk, some protein snacks (nuts, nuts nuts!!!) and some sweets that will stave off an almost daily sweet-tooth craving. I also learned that I need to not be intimidated by staff or situations within a vacation setting, or I may get lost in the 'dining cracks.'
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